In ‘D’ Block of South Ex. 1 is a well manicured park with three unidentified tombs. One of these- a small, dilapidated one seems to have been neglected even by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) - stands in a distant corner. This is Bhure Khan Ka Gumbad; the other two tombs, the main ones that stand tall and splendid are known as Chhote Khan and Bade Khan ka Gumbad.

'Bade Khan’ seems to be a very arbitrary name, given possibly because this particular tomb is larger than the other one. The men buried here sometime in the late 15th century were obviously men of some importance for such splendid tombs were not the lot of commoners.

There are a lot of similarities between the two tombs, which stand about twenty feet apart. Both are square tombs, topped with a flattish dome and are made of grey quartzite and red sandstone. Both have pretty- but by no means intricate- lattice work carved from red sandstone, and both have a decorative mehrab carved into the Western wall to indicate the direction of prayer, Mecca.

But there are certain features that are unique to each tomb. Bade Khan Ka Gumbad, for instance, has striking heavy columns at each of its four corners. These columns, like the magnificent Qutub Minar, are carved in the form of vertical ribs, circular alternating with angular. Chhote Khan Ka Gumbad doesn’t have these splendid columns, but it does have a few remains of what must have been some very pretty tile work in bright blue and green. On either side of the high arched doorway are intricately worked bosses made from plaster; and the domed ceiling inside is beautifully painted in a pattern of red and blue.

Although visitors aren’t normally allowed to climb to the top of the domes, but a polite request to ASI official will grant you access, it did for me. The view is stunning from the dome, but the fact that there’s very little space between the dome and the parapet makes it a bit scary. As in almost all medieval Islamic buildings in India, here too the staircases are built inside a thick wall, and so are narrow and dark. The steps in Chhote Khan Ka Gumbad are very steep, by comparison, the steps in Bade Khan ka Gumbad are comfortably low but some are broken, and there are loads of bats around.

Despite the bats and the treacherous stairs, a very interesting pair of monuments. What’s more, entry is free. You can visit any time between sunrise and sunset.